Swapping the car for the Camel

Our largely car-free week in Cornwall showed what’s possible when people have access to good cycling infrastructure.

A young boy in a blue t-shirt sits on a sandy beach, his yellow bike propped up in the sand behind him.

Heading to Cornwall over the August bank holiday weekend focussed our minds on how we could avoid contributing too much to the traffic that blights the county through the summer. Fortunately, we found accommodation that was only a few hundred metres away, via a path through the woods, from the Camel Trail.

A largely traffic-free, surfaced and virtually level multi-use route, the trail is nearly 30km long. It runs in a sort-of Y shape – a long branch between Padstow and Bodmin, via Wadebridge, and a shorter branch between Bodmin and Wenfordbridge. The tourist board describes it as passing through some of the most spectacular countryside in the south-west, and it’s an attraction in its own right.

I’d seen it quoted that the trail attracts 400,000 visitors every year, and it felt like quite a few of those were there over the bank holiday weekend. The route resembled a busy cycle path in the centre of Amsterdam. Streams of people were pedalling in either direction, happily chatting and negotiating their way smoothly around the various obstacles and towing a variety of child and canine cargo.

But the trail has a use for utility cycling as well as leisure. I rode it into Bodmin to buy groceries at the supermarket, where the lady helping me at the checkout saw my panniers and told me how her son uses the trail to get to college. When we wanted to visit Lanhydrock House, we took the trail into Bodmin and then followed back roads and a few more paths along the National Cycle Network.